A RAIN OF FROGS – TRIVIA FROM THE PAST (August 28/98)

P. Redden (a descendant of one of the pioneer families of Kentville) and Rupert Davis, Kentville’s police chief for 45 years who used a bicycle while patrolling: Redden and Davis will be the subjects of upcoming columns and I mention them in hopes that readers will remember an anecdote or two about these illustrious citizens. Your assistance would be appreciated.

As well as asking for help from readers, I mention Mr. Redden and Mr. Davis to explain how I happened across the trivia in this column. Most of the trivia was discovered while digging through files and scrapbooks at the Old Kings Courthouse Museum and books on local history. I was looking for information on Redden and Davis; while researching I found some interesting and in some cases weird tidbits from the past.

In the fall of 1931, for example, a gale swept the coast in southwestern Nova Scotia and like the old tales about storms that rained toads, it rained frogs. Countless frogs suddenly appeared in Clark’s Harbor during the peak of a storm and residents claimed that they actually rained down from the sky. “Thousands of the small frogs whose appearance is a complete mystery… literally covered the town, filling the streets so that one could hardly walk without stepping on them, invading even the houses and stores,” read a news report on the strange occurrence.

“It has wool and is of the size of a sheep, its head and nose like a moose; its neck stands awry.” A 1774 newspaper description of a “strange beast” found in the woods near Windsor.

In 1941 the Berwick Register reported the death of a 91 year old Kings County native, Holmes Samuel Chipman. His name may not ring a bell but Mr. Chipman has a claim to fame – he pioneered modern printing in Japan. “In 1870,” reads a clipping from the Register, “Mr. Chipman went to Japan with Ito, later the celebrated Prince Ito, Premier of Japan. There he introduced the modern system of printing, made the first type and printed the first newspaper in Japanese.”

Growl if you will about postage rates and the slow postal service but things were much worse in the “good old days.” Arthur Wentworth Hamilton Eaton reports that the cost of posting a letter from Nova Scotia to the United States in 1840 was so high – 15 cents – that people sent letters by “private hand” whenever they could. “Private hand” meant trusting a letter to a chance traveler or a roving peddler who happened to be going in the same direction one wanted the letter to travel.

Ever hear of the Sabbath Observance Statute, which in Nova Scotia forbids working on Sundays? This Statute was in effect as recently as 1931 when under the Statute one Sydney Waters, a Kings County native, was fined $2. plus the wages he earned for laboring on a Sunday. Mr. Waters paid his fine without appealing.

It’s possible that the Sabbath Observance Statute is still on the books but other, much harsher laws that were in effect three or four generations ago have been removed. In 1841, for example, an act was passed by the government making it unlawful to punish people with public whippings, nailing their ears to a pillory or cutting off their ears. Forgery and theft were crimes that once were punished with these cruel measures. (From the Western Chronicle, 1892.)

The Annapolis Valley almost had a gold rush of its own. In 1861 gold fever hit the Valley when traces of the yellow stuff was discovered in a brook south of Wolfville. The find turned out to be of little consequence and the fever quickly subsided.

 

LOOKING BACK – JOHN COLEMAN’S JAIL (August 21/98)

In her book, The Devil’s Half Acre, Mabel Nichols, noted that my great uncle, John Coleman, was the Kings County jailer from 1896 to 1928, a period of 32 years.

While there is a contradiction in his obituary, which said he was the jailer for 30 years, there is little doubt that John Coleman served in this capacity for at least three decades. Before he became the jailer, Coleman worked as a Kings County constable for 25 years; he was employed in law enforcement or some aspect of it in the County for over half a century.

Imagine the tales John Coleman could have told about his half century of observing the lower levels of Kings County society. The drunks, rabble-rousers, tramps, layabouts, cheats, swindlers, murderers and miscreants of all types would at one time or another have passed through his jail. Coleman ran the jail during the last execution in Kings County, the Robinson murder case in 1904.

Over his long term, when he associated with people who for the most part were unwilling tenants of his establishment, it’s natural that John Coleman would be unpopular and perhaps even hated. I expected to unearth a few tales about an iron man with an iron, oft-used fist when I decided to look for details of his employment at the jail.

I found nothing of the sort. In his day, John Coleman was known for his hospitality and kindness. No one was turned away if they need a meal or a place to sleep overnight. His wife’s cooking was famous throughout the county, testimony perhaps that more than the criminal element sat at his table.

John Coleman’s obituary spoke of him being “one of the best police officers this municipality ever had.” Born in Hall’s Harbor and only one generation removed from Ireland, Coleman served as jailer under five different Sheriffs – John Coldwell, Stephen Belcher, Charles Rockwell, Fred Porter and J. D. Dewolfe; he retired three years before he died at age 93. His longevity and the fact that he served as jailer several decades after normal retirement age, speaks volumes about the service he gave.

Over the years I’ve heard many stories about John Coleman’s jail and most spoke of him being compassionate and humane. There was even a ballad written about the jail as it was in Coleman’s time but all that’s remembered of it today are a few lines.

Retired Kentville school teacher, Gordon Hansford, is a descendant of John Coleman through his mother. He recalls one of the stories his mother told him about visiting her Uncle John at the jail. Hansford’s father and mother walked from Wolfville on a Sunday afternoon in 1922 and were met with open arms.

“John was overjoyed to see my mother and father and Aunt Jenny (John’s wife) soon had the tea kettle on and a fine spread of goodies. Jenny was renowned as one of the finest cooks in Kentville. The inmates of the jail ate well and it was said that John Coleman’s jail was ‘the best restaurant in Kentville.’

“John had a great sense of humor and despite his official position as jailer, was very kindly to all. When asked why he was so kind to prisoners, he used to say, ‘I’ve got to be; half of them are relatives of mine’.”

After a brief illness, John Coleman passed away at his home on Brooklyn Street on Christmas morning, 1931. He was survived by Jenny, three sons, and six daughters. One of his daughters was the late Jenny Skaling, the wife of Elmer, who for many years operated one of Kentville’s best-known eateries, Elmer’s Lunch.

FOLK TALES PERSIST OF ACADIAN TREASURE (August 14/98)

“How often have I sat and listened as a boy to my relatives and friends telling of (Acadian) money found in different places in Kings and Annapolis Counties,” A. L. Morse wrote in a letter penned in 1935.

This is how Mr. Morse introduced his topic, Acadian treasure, in a letter to the Berwick Register. Mr. Morse went on to give an account of how his ancestors unearthed a pot containing coins or gold secreted by the Acadians during the Expulsion. As you will note when you see excerpts from this letter below, the Acadian treasure was found by Mr. Morse’s great-grandfather. In other words, the account he gives is supposed to be true.

Nova Scotia is rich in tales of buried treasure, by pirates, by visitors from foreign shores, by religious and semi-religious groups and, of course, by the Acadians. During the turmoil of the Expulsion say some of the local folk tales, the Acadians, expecting to return, buried prized possessions. Many of these possessions, which in some cases were small fortunes in coins, supposedly still lie buried in various parts of Kings and Hants County near Acadian homesteads. Another common folk tale tells of these secret hoards being discovered and bringing instant wealth. Mr. Morse’s tale of his great-grandfather’s find is in this vein.

Stories of Acadian treasure can be found in various areas of the Valley. I reviewed an unpublished history of Sheffield Mills in this column a while back, for example, and the writer mentioned an “Acadian treasure mound.” References to Acadian treasure are not uncommon in the stories and community histories that have been published over the years. It’s a given that if there was once an Acadian settlement in an area, there’s also a legend about buried treasure. Even though the Acadians were, for the most part, simple farm folk with few earthly possessions – and certainly no hoards of gold and jewels – people like to believe that they hid great treasures at the time of the Expulsion.

The possibility does exist, however, that a few Acadians were wealthy and it’s also possible that this wealth was hidden and never recovered. The fortune discovered by Mr. Morse’s great-grandfather may have been the savings of several Acadian families who pooled and hid the few coins they possessed.

How much of a fortune in Acadian coins did Mr. Morse’s ancestor discover? We are never told but Morse gives us plenty of details on the actual discovery. His great-grandfather is plowing one day, using a team of oxen that once belonged to the Acadians, and the plow struck something solid which at first was thought to be root. “It proved to be the bail of a huge iron pot which caught the point of the plow …. and brought the team up very suddenly,” Morse wrote.

Morse’s great-grandfather quickly discovered that he had found something of great value. According to Morse his ancestor sat on the pot to hide its contents and sent home the neighbor’s boy who was working with him. “My ancestors, young married people, as soon as possible unearthed the pot,” Morse continued, “the contents of which enabled them to erect a fine house.”

Morse added that when his great-grandparents died, which would most likely be late in the 18th or early in the 19th century, they left property valued at $12,000. This was a considerable sum for the time and gives credence to Mr. Morse’s tale about the discovery of Acadian treasure

EATON’S HISTORY – CHATTY, GOSSIPY IN PLACES (August 7/98)

In 1761, while preaching the Gospel in Kings County, Daniel Hovey apparently uttered remarks indicating he wasn’t in favor of the British Monarchy. For expressing his opinions freely in public, Hovey was slapped into jail without trial and in addition, was forced to post a bond guaranteeing his good behavior for one year.

On appeal, Hovey’s conviction was overturned immediately by the Halifax courts. In his history of Kings County, Arthur Wentworth Hamilton Eaton said that it was not known “what treasonable utterances Daniel Hovey had made in preaching the gospel.” He said, however, that the higher courts took a milder view of the case and found the actions of the County courts to be “irregular.”

You will find the odd case of Daniel Hovey in Eaton’s history under the “Current Events” chapter. This is the most interesting section of Eaton’s book and if history can be considered entertaining, the most readable. In this chapter, Eaton writes about the trials and tribulations of the ordinary citizens of Kings County. While it is a valuable work, most of Eaton’s book is dry history. In the Current Events section, however, there are a few personal glimpses and Eaton gives up his scholarly tone to become chatty and gossipy.

Eaton noted that winnowing machines were introduced into Kings County “about 1803,” for example. This labor-saving device should have been greeted with enthusiasm by Kings County farmers but it wasn’t. “These simple agricultural implements worked so mysteriously,” Eaton observed, “that people felt there was some witchery about them.”

When the Court of General Sessions for Kings County opened on October 13, 1812, before it were a number of trifling matters. Eaton tells us there were “bills against persons for tying a bush to the tail of Samuel Lilly’s horse and throwing stones at people’s houses.” Previously the Court had dealt with election rigging which apparently was on a par with practical jokes involving horses. Two elected officials were accused of manufacturing votes by “giving deeds of (their) own and other people’s lands to persons fraudulently to qualify them to vote.” This matter, Eaton said, was treated lightly by the Court.

Eaton appears to have tongue in cheek when he records the reaction of Governor Wentworth to an illegal seizure of liquor and other goodies. Eaton tells us that the Governor advertised for the “apprehension of persons who in disguise …. had forcibly entered the dwelling house of Archibald Thomas at Five Islands, Kings County, and there with force and violence took and carried away a quantity of wine, spirits and other conterband (sic) goods, which Charles Fraser, Esq. Inspector and Searcher in that district had seized according to the law.”

Practical jokes, election tomfoolery and skullduggery …. Eaton treated them equally in recording the comings and goings of Kings County’s early citizens. In passing he mentions much more serious events, however: A smallpox outbreak in 1775, a diphtheria epidemic in 1861 when whole families were wiped out and 144 persons died in Kings County alone; in 1844 the appearance of the “weevil or wheat fly” which eventually wiped out the wheat crop; a general failure of the potato crop in 1847, “caused by the rot.”

There are natural disasters, man-made catastrophes, crimes, shenanigans, ordinary people, leaders, lawgivers, and lawyers. This is the only chapter in Eaton’s history that best tells us what the early days were like in Nova Scotia.

HALLS HARBOUR – FACTS AND SOME FICTION (July 31/98)

When I played the bagpipes at the ribbon-cutting ceremonies for Hall’s Harbour’s new wharf, Kings County councilor Madonna Spinazola said in her opening address that I had, in effect, become the area’s official piper.

I appreciated this remark and at the risk of appearing immodest, I have to say that I’m delighted to be associated with Hall’s Harbour as a piper, official or otherwise. I’ve been piping for events at Hall’s Harbour for several years and always look forward to the annual celebration and barbecue in July.

When Ms. Spinazola mentioned my Hall’s Harbour connection, she didn’t realize there’s an association that goes farther back than the time I’ve piped there. Hall’s Harbour has been one of my favorite haunts for over 50 years. Exploring the ancient shoreline, swimming in the bone-chilling Harbour waters, picnics, boating, fishing, rock hunting and courting…. I’ve done all these things and more at the Harbour. My great-grandfather is said to have landed there when he came from Ireland. Two years ago I piped when one of my daughters was married on the old wharf.

As you can see, there are many reasons why Hall’s Harbour has a special attraction for me. For others, the attraction may be its picturesque setting in a rugged Fundy coastline and the relief it offers when the Valley is sweltering in the heat. Its heyday as a fishing village may be long gone and little of real historical significance can be found in its rocks and pilings, but Hall’s Harbour retains enough folksy atmosphere and charm to appeal to tourists and residents alike.

Except for brief mentions in history books, tourist literature, and the occasional newspaper article, relatively little has been recorded about Hall’s Harbour. The paucity of written references can’t be rectified in this column but there are places to look if you’d like to know more about the old harbour.

The Old Kings Courthouse Museum in Kentville has an excellent file on the Harbour which, as well as a series of newspaper stories, has some historical references and a partly fictional article about pirate treasure. The adventures of Hall’s Harbour’s most famous son, Ransford Buchnam, are chronicled in the file in an article by The Advertiser‘s Brent Fox. For anyone interested in tracing ancestors who once lived in or around Hall’s Harbour and may rest in nearby graveyards, there is a cemetery file at the Museum.

Ever wonder how Hall’s Harbour got its name? Eaton’s History of Kings County devotes a page to the adventures of Samuel Hall, a Kings County native who guided a band of New England privateers in raids on the Valley; the privateers used the Harbour as a base. Eaton mentions a mill, the first store (opened “about 1830”) and some shipbuilding in an all-too-brief paragraph, but most of his account is devoted to the battle between the privateers and the local militia. Through his account, we learn that Hall’s Harbour is named after a scoundrel!

One of Nova Scotia’s most famous photographers, A. L. Hardy, recorded Hall’s Harbour as it appeared near the turn of the century. Hardy’s Harbour shots have been used on various post cards and are cherished by collectors. In recent times, photographer Dick Killam has taken some spectacular pictures of Hall’s Harbour and these are on display at his studio. As well as capturing the beauty of Hall’s Harbour on film, Killam has recorded the last days of its old wharf as it was eroded by high winds and high tides.

Last but not least are the craggy, rugged cliffs at Hall’s Harbour, cliffs that someone likened to primeval sentinels. Well, ancient they are. Geologists tell us the cliffs are at least 190 million years old.

“ATTACKED” BY A SKUNK? HERE’S SOME HELP (July 24/98)

Lloyd Duncanson recently told me an amusing story about a goat farmer who uses white plastic containers for water dishes. Seems he goes around the goat pen after dark kicking over the containers as he changes the water. One evening a skunk got into the pen. In the poor light the skunk’s stripe stood out, kinda like a water dish, and…

Well, as they say, you know the rest of the story. Another person discovered to their dismay that people also get sprayed when a skunk becomes alarmed. There’s a friend, for example, who discovered he had locked a skunk in his garage overnight. He made the mistake of kicking at the skunk to hurry it out. Several days later you could still tell that the skunk was good at hitting a moving target.

While I’ve mentioned two incidents where people were sprayed by skunks, it doesn’t happen often. Usually, it’s the family dog or cat and canines used by hunters that suffer the wrath of irritated skunks. People attacks are relatively rare.

I don’t have to tell anyone whose pet has been sprayed that cleaning them up isn’t any fun. It can be a disaster, and a costly one, when a dog makes a panic run through the house after a spraying and contacts beds, sofas, curtains and clothing. I’ve heard some horror stories about this happening, and they weren’t funny.

In previous columns, I’ve mentioned various things that are helpful in eliminating skunk odour and removing spray stains. I’ve tried several mixtures and concoctions on my hunting dogs after they were sprayed, including the traditional tomato juice bath and strong soap and water, and none were 100 per cent effective. The commercial skunk odour eliminators I’ve tried were only partly effective, erasing most of the odour after several applications but leaving a lingering reminder that was obvious every time the dog got wet.

If you are hunting or exercising your dog and there contact with a skunk, keep in mind that it helps to put your dog into water as quickly as possible. I’ve found that commercial odour eliminators were more effective if I gave my dogs a thorough dunking in a brook or pond immediately after contact.

Since I’ve pooh-poohed the use of tomato juice or soap and water and questioned the effectiveness of commercial odour eliminators, you may ask if anything really helps after contact with a skunk. The answer is “yes.”

Lloyd Duncanson, who is a licensed predator control officer, vouches for the following recipe – let’s call it a skunk wash – which came originally from a trapper’s magazine, The Modern Trapper. Duncanson tells me that many people use this concoction, which as you will see, is made from readily available ingredients. “Very few things work (in eliminating skunk odour)” Duncanson says, “but this does.”

To make the skunk wash combine one quart of hydrogen peroxide with one-quarter cup of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and one teaspoon of liquid soap. The hydrogen peroxide (or three per cent hydrogen peroxide to be correct) is the product normally sold over the counter at all pharmacies. The liquid soap can be laundry or dish detergent.

This wash is good for man and beast, Duncanson says, but should be kept away from eyes and mouth, a warning echoed by a local pharmacist when I asked him about combining these ingredients.

By the way, this is one recipe I hope you never have to use. There’s only one way you can tell me this wash is effective and that truly would be good news and bad news.

PIPING – THE OLD GIVES AWAY TO THE NEW (July 24/98)

The blossom festival parade seemed to drag on forever this year and when our pipe band finished marching, a pit stop to replace lost body fluids was a necessity. There was an added inducement to go for a cold draught when someone announced that the pipe bands were stopping at Rosie’s in downtown Kentville and there would be playing galore.

While I was physically wiped out and a coffee would be more invigorating than a brew, I didn’t want to miss the opportunity of hearing some of the best pipers in eastern Canada. For me, the next best thing to playing the pipes is listening to them. So anticipating some fine music, and ignoring my burning feet, I struck out for Webster Street.

I would like to report that I enjoyed a cold brew and good piping at Rosie’s but I only stopped for a moment. For the first time ever bagpipe music turned me off, literally, figuratively, any way you want to put it; and not because it was being poorly played. The pipers on Rosie’s patio were excellent and it wasn’t what they were playing that made me shun them but how it was being played.

To explain why this was a turn off we have to talk for a moment about the work of piping historian and well-known piper, Barry Shears, of Halifax. Mr. Shears has published two books of Cape Breton pipe music with old photographs and is currently working on a history of Nova Scotia pipers. In his earlier writing Mr. Shears bewailed the fact that the pipes have been pushed aside as a “social dance instrument,” thanks to the increased usage of amplified instruments (i.e. the electric guitar) and the increasing popularity of the fiddle.

While this was happening piping became standardize and written music appeared. This eventually led to the advent of pipe bands and the disappearance of what Mr. Shears calls “learning pipe music in the oral tradition,” that is learning it by the music being sung with Gaelic words or in a form of mouth music. Pipe music played in this old style was more lively and happy and as Mr. Shears points out, much more expressive of the Gaelic culture in Nova Scotia.

The upshot is that much of the pipe music, or so-called pipe music, being heard today is played in a pedantic, mechanical style that is little better than rhythmic exercises. While the pipers playing this music are excellent technicians and are good at what they do, their playing, for the most part, lacks emotional expression.

Many of the tunes pipe bands favor today remind me of someone counting with bagpipe notes. I heard this band or competition style being played at Rosie’s after the blossom festival parade and it was actually depressing; I made a hasty retreat up the road to Tim Hortons.

The new style of piping (as opposed to the traditional style Barry Shears writes about) is entrenched firmly today. There is hope of a revival of the old style, however. Since the Cape Breton style of fiddling has become popular, musical groups here and there are adding bagpipes to their ensemble. The pipes we hear nowadays in these bands skirl out the old jigs and reels in a lively style that was once played a few generations ago in Nova Scotia.

There are many of us older pipers and lovers of pipe music who are happy indeed that this is happening.

“SMARTEST BIRD ALIVE” – THE CROW (July 17/98)

Tap, tap, tap, repeated over and over, morning after morning. After a while we wondered what our neighbour was diligently working at every day, so we peeked through the hedge. The “neighbour” was a crow tapping on the basement window of the house next door. For several weeks the crow went through the ritual daily, tapping, stopping a moment to peer in the window, tapping again, and for all we know the bird could still be visiting next door.

What attracted the crow to our neighbour’s basement window? Was it unusual behaviour for a bird? People who study crows say it’s nosy and curious and often spends its leisure time checking out shiny things and getting into mischief. And no, it isn’t unusual behaviour for a bird – if the bird is a crow. Students of the crow claim it is intelligent and deserves more than the black reputation it has acquired through long association with man.

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EATON ON ACADIANS AND THEIR DYKES (July 17/98)

I’ve mentioned local historian Ernest Eaton on numerous occasions, most recently in a February column on a 900-year-old pine log found on the Canard dykes. Mr. Eaton was involved in research on the pine and the result was a plaque at the Old Kings Courthouse Museum.

After that column appeared, and perhaps spurred by it, a telephone call came from Veronica Connelly, Windsor. Ms. Connelly told me about a talk Eaton gave in 1984 on the Acadians and their dykes at the West Hants Historical Society. The talk had been taped Ms. Connelly said, offering to forward a copy.

Hearing Mr. Eaton’s gravely voice on that tape brought back memories of times I visited his home and listened to stories about his favorite topic, the Canard dykes. “One of these times I’ll put together a book based on my research” Eaton used to say when we talked about the dykes. As far as I know he never did. His work lies in scattered papers and on recordings such as the tape I received from Veronica Connelly.

“The older I get, the more I appreciate the diligence, the energy and the high degree of esoteric skill that the (Acadians) exercised in building these dykes.” Eaton began his talk with this observation, noting that around the headwaters of the Bay of Fundy the Acadians had reclaimed approximately 100,000 acres of land from the sea, in the process creating hundreds of miles of running dyke. “It was a very great achievement,” he said.

Most of the dykework of the Acadians in this area was completed in a relatively short period of 90 years, Eaton noted. He described the dyke building expertise of the Acadians, an accomplishment he called amazing given the lack of machinery and modern materials, contrasting this with the feeble attempts at dyke building by English settlers in the 19th century. Then there were the engineers sent here by Ottawa when the government first got involved with dyke repairs some years ago. Eaton said they looked at the remains of the old dykes that were still in use and exclaimed, “You can’t build dykes like that; it can’t be done.”

The accomplishments of the Acadians were put in perspective when Eaton dwelt on the land they reclaimed: “It’s the only (area of) fertile soil in Nova Scotia of any size,” Eaton said. “I think there’s no place on the North American continent where such a poor piece of natural soil has been so productive as the Annapolis Valley. People talk about the fertile Valley but they don’t look at the soil as it was in its original state (before they Acadians began to dyke it).” Eaton added that as far as he was aware, “there are only two large marsh bodies in use that were not built by the Acadians.”

The Acadians began their dyke work in this area in 1673, Eaton said. “In other words, 35 to 40 years after the first settlers (arrived) at Annapolis, three families moved up the Minas Basin, families by the name of Landry, Theriault and LeBlanc. From that date on to the expulsion practically all the dykeland we see around here was reclaimed.”

That the Acadians could transform so much of the seabed into productive land in so short a time was a miracle, Eaton said. “Try to imagine what an accomplishment it was, what the Acadians did in approximately 90 years, in bringing many thousands of acres of dykeland into use.”

It’s an accomplishment we tend to take for granted today.

 

HUNTERS SWAMPING DEER DRAW LINE (July 10/98)

Since the government announced a limited hunt this fall for “antlerless deer,” the phones at 1-900-565-DEER have literally been ringing off the hook.

This is the number hunters call to apply for an antlerless deer hunting stamp and thousands of hopefuls have already dialled in. In fact, by the time the September 4th deadline for applications arrives, at least 25,000 hunters will have their names in the government computer for the draw; big game biologist, Tony Nette, told me recently he anticipates that at least this many hunters will apply for the antlerless deer stamp.

Since 8,150 antlerless deer stamps will be available, this means hunters have about a one in three chance of being drawn. Which are better odds than winning on a 649 ticket.

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